What a better way to cook a Valentine’s dinner to not only cook from the heart but also for the Heart! A seared fresh fillet of snapper with a hint of ginger and turmeric on a bed of wilted Bok Choy with garlic and a crisp salad is just what the doctor & cupid ordered!
I ground together ginger, szechuan peppercorn, turmeric and dried lemon peel. Then seasoned the fish skin lightly with the mixture. Sautéed roughly chopped garlic until almost brown and added bok choy & radicchio leaves and continued to cook until slightly wilted. Heated an iron skillet and added the seasoned snapper skin side down. Once the edges where beginning to cook I flip the fish and continue to cook for just a few minutes. I divided the wilted Bok Choy & radicchio onto two plates and laid the snapper fillets on top, skin side up. A heavily dressed handful of arugula with lemon vinaigrette was then placed on top of the fillets.
A light dish with hints of many flavors was a good chose for a well-seasoned relationship!
It’s unfortunate that the latter generations of my family are sacrificing their palette for fast food. As I often speak of the unusual meats and innards that we ate as kids I feel such sorrow that the kids of my siblings are not introduced or even given the chance to eat so well! Maybe they are given the chance but who would turn down a Big Mac over Squirrel and dumplings? So when my father gave me several wild mallards from a resent hunt you can bet that I made the most of it and only wished they were here to enjoy the good food we were meant to eat!
One given night I decided to remove the breast and legs and use the carcass for stock. I seasoned the breast and seared them until medium rare and served them with curried Brussels sprout risotto and finished it off with a drizzle of aged Balsamic.
I cooked the small legs in olive oil with a bit of bacon dripping added from some extra flavor. I simmered the legs in the oil mixture with garlic cloves and Szechuan peppercorns until tender. Placed them in a container and poured the oil over them and reserved them for a later use.
The carcass I covered with chicken stock and added tomato, carrots, peppercorns, cloves, and onions and simmered for about 8 hours. Meanwhile, I soaked borlotto beans overnight and will use them the next day along with the game stock, tomatoes, carrots, onions, Parmesan rind and collard greens to make a hearty soup for a good winter day.
The mallard confit I may add to the soup or reheat them slowly and serve them over stewed lentils, either would certainly do justice.
Bogotá, which was list on the top 53 Places to visit in the New York Times,is a very difficult city to maneuver. Its marvel winding streets and its unnamed busy roads are constantly expanding. But its beauty does not necessary lie in its landscape but in its people and its food. I have been to Bogotá several times and each time my love grows deeper within its city mountainous walls. The food has its own touch as like every other city with a rich history and people who are busy yet very friendly and accommodating.
I have the fortunate scenario because Mario’s uncle & aunt owns a small restaurant within their home and once was the manager of one of the larger food and flower markets in the city. So I could say between them and his sister and brother –in-law I have my own tour guides? And the undying attention of the city’s people, being tall, bald and pale its not easy to blend in! The undying desire of Mario’s family was to give me another exhilarating trip to Colombia. So we headed to Santa Marta after spending a week in Bogotá.
I often say to people that if you have been to a city once for a few days then you really can’t say you been there and if you been there more than once but did not see more than the tourist sights than you can’t say you really know the city. To know a city or really to have been there you have to have been feed by the city and dig deep into its local scene.
As in Ecorsaint, Florence, Sevilla or any other city where I have traveled to, I rarely ate at the restaurants but instead searched out the cheese markets, bakeries and pastry shops. Where I would often find a lunch, brushing aside the typical Bistro. Unless it was a local find or highly recommended then it was worth spending the 3 to 4 hours there. As such, I was so lucky to have Mario’s family to take part in my journey though Colombia, the coffee fields in Armenia. A rich country of deep heritage, tradition, food and unbelievable produce is Colombia.
Ever plaza I went to was laden with fresh fruits & vegetables, most without pesticides simply because most farmers cannot afford it. A small mango can be picked from the tree and eaten with the skin. How dare you not eat the skin, why eat it ate all?
In the past as I walked though the valleys of lavender covered Province, I would think cliché and say so. As Asia been brought to the screen by Food Network most have seen its luxury of tradition and “not so sure” eatables. It is certainly South America, Middle East and Africa that is capturing most food Travelers that want true cuisine and not the hype. Perhaps with a simple mind of pure pleasure of meeting Mario’s family and locals and eating every morsel that was presented, I gathered a much more respect and love for countries that soon, as they become more written about, will be just another Mayle’s Provence!
A beautiful Sunday afternoon in January is often filled with cold & snow but today it was a sunny warm day! We were driving about and Mario out of the blue wanted Clams & Pasta! One of life’s many simple pleasures!
So, I picked up 3 dozen of fresh clams, I hate when getting this dish in a restaurant and u find less then a dozen, and some fresh herbs and headed home. After steaming them with caramelized onions, garlic, white wine and finely chopped rosemary I removed the clams from their shell. I reduced the sauce by one third and made a Fresh breadcrumb mixture of Garlic, cilantro & butter. I added the clams back into the sauce a few minutes before the al dente Spaghetti. I let the spaghetti and clams simmer for a few minutes and seasoned with black pepper. I never add salt because most times the clams are producing enough on their on.
I placed the pasta & clams into a bowl and sprinkled it with the seasoned Breadcrumbs, poured a crisp white wine and called it a perfect light yummy Sunday lunch!
It’s been over a year since I left my last employment to take off a year and that year has been lickity-split! As I sat with many friends in the last few weeks we all agreed that this year was a speedball of a year!
So sat down to listen to Queen Latifah’s singing Poetry man and gathered my thoughts to ponder on the delicious year and thought of what’s to come? I just finished a new year traditional of Corn beef, cabbage & black Eye peas with some friends and had a impromptu dinner with a few other good friends the night before and realized that its not where I have been but who I have fed that has made this year a joyous one!
Since I was energetic about starting this blog it’s been difficult to maintain. Since my trip to Colombia, more on that later which I should have bogged in, it has been a feast of friends and food these passed several weeks! Therefore a wonderful finish to a memorable year of such!
I thought on recapping on some of the food that I was fortunate to eat and a few of the restaurants or places I think are worth mentioning.
Corn Beef is one of them. I brine my own and have done so many times with great success. Better than brisket with a salty herbal tang, is a sure winner for any occasion
Colombian Pastels may be a process but it’s worth doing and more so to eat! Different than most, it’s a great first course or even better as an appetizer!
Roasted Chicken stuffed with ricotta cheese with a hint of preserved lemon and rosemary has taken the roast chicken up a notch!
As easy as 123… Chocolate Tiramisu is a winner for all crowds! Or you can’t go wrong with serving old-fashioned Kentucky Bourbon chocolate covered cherries!
Brussels Sprouts may be Nay Say for most people but with a good preparation, sautéed with bacon and Red pepper flakes is a different Hooray!
For drinks, I find Taylor’s to be a super place. A comfortable space downstairs with delicious mixed drinks.
Hands down for Harvest on Hudson in Hastings for Oysters! We consumed about a dozen a week there and never had a bad one! Fresh, Fresh, Fresh! The mojitos are one of the best too!
Pizza, clearly Al forno in Providence Rhode Island has the best! Clean toppings with crispy dough! If you are lucky enough to sit with the owners than its even more worthy of a trip! A pure Pleasure!
Ever time I hear stone Crabs I think of Key West. Go in February and have a bucket of them ever night. Some of the best you will ever find.
One of the better finds was MK in Chicago. A fun place with a good changing menu.
One the best Framers markets I went to this year was in Bogotá Colombia! If you love fruit than you will fall in love with Plaza Paloquemao! The soup kitchens there are some of the best. Try the Pajarila!
A bed and Breakfast with great food was Alexandra B & B in Bennington, Vermont. Some of the Best sweetbreads!
Still hands down, a good place to eat is Oliveto in Oakland California.
An old-fashioned hang out with friends with good food and great drinks is Jack Fry’s in Louisville, KY.
A great margarita with fried Grasshoppers you got to hit Toloache in NYC.
Caesars Palace in Las Vegas. For the pool and the gracious staff.
A house rental on Saint Georges’s Island is a great place to spend with a group of family or friends. The fresh seafood was always available to sell to grill or roast.
A fun place with great history and views is Niagara Falls. There is a also a casino there so if you are not a early sleeper than you have nothing to worry about.
Still, the steaks at TASTE are by far the best for the value anywhere in New York City, as long as the prices don’t get any higher.
I hope this is helpful and it only gives a glimpse of what I tasted and enjoyed during 2007. I wish the best eats and sights for you all.
An Italian tradition on Christmas Eve is several courses of dishes consisting of seven varieties of seafood! Since Mario and I decided to stay in New York this year I thought it would be fun to do the Italian tradition.
Fresh Shrimp, Alaskan king crab, Red Snapper, Calamari, Monkfish, Anchovy & Clams were the Seven I decided upon. I started with a few shrimp Fritters, Colombian Pastilles style. I created dough from boiling Yuka and adding flour. Then for the filling, I cooked rice with leeks and chicken stock. Added some chopped boiled eggs and cooked shrimp. Rolled out the dough and cut it into 4 inch circles. I fill each circle with the filling and rolled them into balls. Later I will fry them until golden brown for the starter.
I steamed the Crab Legs and removed the meat. I cooked some fresh Spaghetti and tossed it with the crab, butter & chives. On with the next course, I made a quick salad of Frisee, Shaved fennel and grilled calamari with anchovy vinaigrette, a nice and refreshing bite.
The finale was a Fisherman’s soup consisting of the remaining fish. I made a good soup base of fish stock, aromatic vegetables, cabbage and tomato and added Red Snapper, Monkfish & Clams. Served it with garlic bread & a good bottle of Orvieto wine! A nice sip of espresso put me right to sleep for a long winters nap, at least until tomorrow when I start cooking for Christmas!
After picking up some fresh lima & borlotto beans at the farmers market I wanted to do something more than the usual. Possibly a ragout of beans with a fish? I opted for shellfish. I thought a creamy ragout of fresh limas, borlotto and sweet corn, that I had also picked up at the market, lobster, clams and shrimp served with a autumn salad and garlic bread.
Start with cutting the lobster(s) in half and sautéing them cut side down while covered until the shell turns bright red. Approx. 5-6 minutes, the meat while is just slightly uncooked but u will finish it in the ragout. Remove the lobster and cool. To the same pan add diced carrots, parsnip, onion and fennel. Sauté for a few minutes and add chicken stock, vegetable stock or even fish stock, if you have it, simmer for 10 minutes. Then add the clams. After the clams begin to open then add the shrimp and lobster that has been removed from the shell. Simmer until the shell is cooked and then calms are completely open. Season with salt and pepper and sprinkle with some chopped cilantro and serve with toasted garlic toast.
I made a salad of Puntarella, arugula, sliced Anjou pear, parmigaino & Anchovy-Lemon Vinaigrette to company the Ragout. I good White Burgundy or a Vernaccia would be delicious with this autumn inspired meal!
As I mentioned before, I went to Louisville for a few days. Just the smell of the Pot Roast in the crock pot I knew that I had made the right decision to head “Home” for a few days! Pot roast is a simple dish but it can draw many conclusions on its preparation and the finishing gravy. Sauce for those not in the know!
In the north I find pot roast always served with this thick paste called gravy. There are a few things the South can learn form the North but when it comes to Gravy, the North should take out its notebook.
Rarely do I have any wine left over but I noticed that there was a 1/2 bottle of zinfandel that was left over from the previous evening. I had some chicken thighs that I did not use from the Sancocho dinner, so I thought a nice quick Coq au Vin. When it comes to preparing French dishes, especially if you have a hard time pronouncing it, most assume it will be difficult and a drawn out evening of cooking. I can assure you that Coq au Vin can be made in a few hours or even overnight in a crock pot, just remember to marinate the chicken the day before in red wine.
So I did, I poured the zinfandel over the thighs and placed in the refrigerator. The next day I removed the thighs and reserved the wine. I rendered 3 slices on bacon until slightly crispy. I added the thighs and sautéed them until brown. It will be hard to notice the color since they will be purple form the wine. After removing the chicken, I added 1 thickly sliced onion and 8 cremini mushrooms that had been cut in half. Once the onions and mushrooms were a bit caramelized I added the chicken and pour over the reserved wine. Once the wine was reduced to one quarter I added the bacon that had been cut into thirds and enough chicken stock to cover the chicken. I covered the pan and simmered for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, I made some mashed potatoes and prepared a quick salad of arugula. Rice or noodles would go with the chicken just as well. Once the chicken is just tender enough (barely falling off the bone) then reduce the cooking liquid to half. If it is already reduced then omit the reduction. Bring the liquid to a boil and add 1 tablespoon of diluted cornstarch (cornstarch diluted in water), Stir and season with salt & pepper.
Along with the Coq au Vin, mashed potatoes and arugula a nice robust red wine would go wonderfully. Bon Appetite
chef with a parnter of 14+ years living in NYC and westchester.
My Mom always cooks it in a crock-pot, an undisputed invention. A drizzle of Cornstarch until the sauce becomes just thick enough to become a stage beyond jus is the trick. Just remember that when the word is out your having a roast always make sure that your making more. If any left over, a good hash for Sunday morning with Biscuits and dried beef gravy is a welcoming invitation to any visitor.
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